Car model and year: 2020 Honda Civic Type R
Purpose: the brake piston retraction for rear brakes.
The most likely time that I would need to replace the rear brakes ASAP would be at the race track. Although the video looks good, it would be a lot easier to just use an electronic tool to do it.
- Autel AP200 scanner Feedback:
1). 2020 Honda Civic Type R: No
after contacting Autel, when it comes to the 2020 model, they insist that I would need a vastly more expensive reader such as the Autel MS906BT which retails for almost $1300 USD and is likely a lot more tool than I need.
2). A 2019 Honda Civic hatchback sport: Yes
I bought Autel AP200, I did the brakes this weekend and can confirm this works with 2019 civic si to retract the EPB and put it back to normal.
You have to download the app, the appropriate libraries and you’re good to go.
Make sure you have wifi else it won’t download, after it’s downloaded and updated you only need Bluetooth to connect to the scan tool to do your maintenance.
3). 2019 CTR: Yes
It does work with our cars you just have to go to the correct setting and options. Took me a minute to figure it out for my 2019 but it does work.
“EPB” is what you need to click on to retract the e-brake. Bleed feature does not work on FK8, but all you need is to retract the e-brake so it won’t fall out when removing the caliper.
Download “MAXIAP200” app
Activate it, create account, etc.
Plug in your Autel device. Connect your phone to it.
In the app, Go to service, and it will want you to choose the brand of vehicle from the mall: choose Honda.
it tells you that you need to download another app “diag-Asia”.
Once that opens up and connects, that is where your parking brake function will be.
all of this is in the product literature that came with the device.
- Autel MaxiDiag MD806 Pro feedback
1) 2018 Honda Civic retract brakes: confirmed
I was able to retract my brakes for a 2018 Honda Civic with an Autel MD806 Pro.
Once the brakes are retracted (you can hear the motor) you can shutoff the car and work on the brakes. The e-brake motors do not buzz, meaning they are staying in the retracted position.
When everything is assembled, switch to key on engine off then back to the scanner to get out of service mode. The e-brake motors will buzz back to the normal position.
The ABS and other warning lights will shut off.
2) Canadian 2020 Honda CTR: Failed
Bad result for me. Bought a Autel MaxiDiag MD806 Pro, downloaded the most up to date software from Autel but it would not communicate with my Canadian 2020 CTR. Would read engine codes, VIN etc but no luck with EPB or even Oil reset. To be fair, Autel said it wouldn’t support my car but given the success of others for up to 2019 cars, I thought I would try. Worked fine for my wife’s 2014 Mazda. I assume there is something in the programming that will require an upgrade from Autel software. Meanwhile I guess I will have to stick to a gentle use of the rotating piston manual retraction method. Really don’t want to remove the actuator motor if I can avoid it and to be fair, I wouldn’t have thought it necessary from the diagram.
- Foxwell NT510 Elite retract rear EPB for Canadian 2020 Honda CTR: Confirmed
Just a further follow up. I still wanted to use an electronic method to retract the rear EPB given that I will be doing it a number of times a season changing between track and street pads. Contacted Foxwell and they claimed their NT510 Elite for Honda/Acura would do the trick for my 2020. I ordered it, updated it and it worked beautifully, exactly as claimed.
Make sure you download the software for Honda /Acura.
Yes it is more expensive than the Autel AP200 but I couldn’t get an Autel MD806 Pro to work on a 2020 car so not so sure that an AP200 would work. It is certainly easier to use than the AP200 and likely more sturdy. I don’t believe I will need to pay for updates for this car anyway.
When replacing some rear race pads that were hardly worn with the more worn street pads. The Foxwell tool worked like a charm and I actually kept the ignition on for the duration. Changing pads like this is virtually as easy if not easier than doing the fronts. Only issue is that the passenger side upper bolt has to be removed with a 7mm Allen key. On the left side, all I have to do is loosen it and then flip the key so that it can be spun easily but on the right side, I run out of room. A slightly shorter key would work but all in all it is only about 4 turns that need to be done 180 degrees at a time.
As for the part about getting the hydraulic slack taken up, yes, I stepped on the brake pedal after installing the new thinner pads to get the pads back in close proximity to the rotors before getting out of the EPB maintenance mode. Worked great.
Why not retract the parking brake without a scan tool?
Since I don’t want to drive with the rear track pads for street use, I will be doing this twice for each track day. Not really happy about the idea of removing the brake actuator motor twice a day for at least 10 days per year. The electronic way is likely much better for me and much less likely to lead to some sort of mechanical issue.